Jan 16, 2023

Complete Guide to Amalfi Coast

How much time do I need for Amalfi Coast?

There are multiple islands on the Amalfi Coast. It's best to visit the Amalfi coast for 2 weeks, but if you only have a week, just pick 1 or 2 islands from the list. Read on to find out which one fits you best!

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Positano Viewpoint past Hotel l'Ancora

How much to budget for Amalfi Coast?

Is the Amafi Coast Expensive? It doesn't have to be. Among the islands, Positano and Capri are the most expensive and touristy, and Ischia is more local and affordable, and in my opinion more interesting to visit since it is a volcano island with thermal ocean water. It is also the only one with sandy beaches. On average I spent about 150 dollar per day staying at a mix of airbnb and boutique hotels across islands/mainland for one months. I also eat out everyday. Sometimes at fancy restaurant for 80 dollar a meal and others at local joints for 10 dollar.

How to get around Amalfi Coast?

Positano and Capri are very accessible by ferry with multiple ferries departing every day. Ferries to Ischia is about once or twice a day, and since Ischia is quite big if you staying there make sure you are getting off at the right port.

You can purchase a ticket in advance on FerryHopper.com. I recommend checking the schedule and booking the later/last tickets of the day so you have plenty of time to explore. Also if you end up finishing early they will just let you on an earlier boat with the same ticket. Sometimes it's hard to navigate the ports so don't be afraid to ask the officers for help to locate your dock, especially if you are under time constraint. Tickets are around 70 dollar road trip as of 2022.

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Using the ferries is the best way to travel in Amafi. It is a scenic tour around the beautiful cliffs and water along the coast. Plus the driveways for cars are super winding, narrow, and can turn extreamely chaotic in major cities like Naple. If you have time and want to save a few extra bucks, you can also travel by train and buses. However you would have to make multiple transits that takes a few more hours and the savings are only about 30 dollar each trip.

One-week itinerary for Amalfi Coast

I recommend 2 nights in Ischia since it's the biggest island, 2 nights in Positano since there are hikes around and 1 night in Calpri since it's the most touristy.

If you are spending more than 5 days in the Amafie coast and don't want to drop 800USD every night on a hotel, I can recommend you to stay a few nights in Naples, Ravello or Praiano, considering that the islands are are very accessible. In fact the majority of pathways on Positano and Capri are made of steep cobbled stone staircase, which is not really pleasant for rolling suitcase on a sunny summer day.

That being said, there are luggage porter services if you want to enjoy a stress-free holiday:

https://praianorentascooter.com/en/delivery-door-to-door-luggage-service-amalfi-coast-praiano/

https://amalfiporters.it/

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strategic location of Hotel l'Ancora

I dined at the restaurant on premise of Hotel l'Ancora my hike to the Path of the God (see below). The hotel has rooms overlooking the most instagram worthy views of Almafi. Savage their handmade pasta with fresh seafood overlooking the beach and ports.

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Accommdations by cities

Positano

Pro Tip: Ocean front accommdations do get booked up in the summer. Book ahead!

Palazzo Margherita

Villa Magia

Hotel Le Agav

Naples: Convenient locations near harbor and center

Smart Hotel Napoli: Minimumlistic and efficient

Don Raffaele Resort: Views of old castle and port

Suite dei Catalani: Homy, Balcony with castle views

Megaris Luxury Suite Rooms: Hospitality, Jacuzzi, Central

You can also find convenient bnb near the center, or quiet neighborhood likes.

Use my links for extra savings and support me!

Things to do in Amalfi CoastThings to do in CapriThe Blue Grotto

Blue Grotto - Is it worth it (Video)?

There are a few famous destinations in Capri. The Blue Grotto, where the water becomes evanescent blue when sunlight shines into the cave and reflects off of deep water. I've been and here's why I don't recommend going to the Blue Grotto - t's only visible on sunny days, which means it's incredibly hot, and in the summer peak seasons, you can easily wait for 3 hours under the sun as there's limited entry into the caves. When it's your term you only get to see if for 5 minutes max, that is if you tip the skipper. Here's a video of my experience, I'll leave you to decide if you want to go.

You can buy ferry tickets in the same ferry port when arriving to Capri. You can also take a bus there, or hike a private boat if you are a big party or want to enjoy some quality time with your partner. Eitherway when you get close to the cave entry you'll have to switch to a small boat.

Shopping

Calpri is really the paradise for luxurious hotels and high fashion designer shops. From internally renouned brands like Gucci to boutique Italian brands like Grey Flannel, La Pariesienne, to handmade sandals, you can shop until you drop on near Via Tragara.

Things to do in Anacapri

Anacapri is another town next to Capri. While Capri is charming, I prefer hiking in Anacapri over the overpriced, instagrammable pumpkin flower pasta. I recommend taking the chair lift up Anacapri to Monte Solaro. If you are carrying a backpack, wear it in the front. There's a guy who will yell at you in Italian if you don't:). You sit in a very cute cart that takes only one person, overlooking the mountains and ocean. At the top there's a very cute church, a cafe with ice cream and refreshments, and some sculpures with even better view overlooking the city.

To get to the entrance you can hike up for 2 hours from Capri, or you can buy a bus ticket from the convenience store for 5 EURO.

Can you do Capri and Anacapri in a day?

Honestly it's a bit hectic trying to do Capri on your own in a day, especially in the summer. If you want to be taken care of and have a relatively relaxing experience, either spend a night there, or book an affordable tour from Naples.

Free/Outdoor activities

Hiking the path of the god (Sentiero degli Dei)DSC02969.JPG

With ciffs, terrance, boats gliding on the draps of sea, path of the god(Sentiero degli Dei) is probably the most miraculous 7km hike you can do in a few hours.

This is an easy to moderate trail with multuple starting points - Positano, Praiano, Bomerano, Novelle. It takes 2.5 - 5 hours to finish depends on your pace and level of fitness.

Keep in mind that it can be a very challenging hike if you are afraid of heights. The sun is high so wear some light garments and stay hydrated. Lastly if hiking from Positano or Praiano be prepared for a lot of stairs and wear good walking shoes for uneven/rocky paths.

I trekked all three paths and stayed for sunset at the viewpoint near Bomerano. I recommend to bring a headlamp if you are considering staying after dawn. Bonus tip, you can go glamping there!

Souvenirs

In Calpri you can shop until you drop. With lined designer shops like Dior, Fendi, as well as boutique European brands.

Do you know that Italy is the second exporter of linen after China? There are also unique handmade items like sandals, watches, and quality linen clothing.

Besides fashion products, lemonceno and other limon flavored products are popular souvenirs take home.

Picture of lemonceno ice-cream in Positano at Shop X

Things to do in Ischia

1. Visit Giardini La Mortella(advanced booking required for winter), an elegant garden with asian and meditareanean elements such as a Greek theater, bamboo garden, thai tower, and water lilies living the impressionism of a Monet painting.

2. Take a plunge in natural salt water thermal spas, or rustic sauna in a cave near Le Maronti. There are many options! I enjoyed my time in the pools of hotel Aphrodite Apollon.

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3. Near Aphrodite Apollon, Sabore a fish or octopus dish cooked from the hot sand of Le Fumarole dei Maronti: this is a volcanic island where the beach sand can reach 100°C (boiling)!

4. Admire the view points along Sant'Angelo.

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5. Visit the giant medieval Aragonese Castle. Budget 2-3 hours for its rich history and art.

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6. Relax/Swim in the long stretch of sandy beaches of Forio.

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Best to do in a 2 day trip. You can pick and choose for a day trip, although just visiting one or two places can take up the whole day.

Things to do near Amalfi Coast

1. Pompeii and Mount Velsuvia:

Visit Pompeii, the ancient city destroyed by eruption of Mount Velsuvia. Architecture and history lovers will be amazed by the marble mosaic flooring, public bath houses, phalic signs for directions just like the ancient greek, kamasutra wall paitnings in red light houses, theaters, and the first cross-walks ever in existence!

I went on a tour and hiked Mount Velsuvia too on the same trip. Although I was lucky have a cloudy morning when I did the hike, be prepared for a lot of walking in the heat. The road to Velsuvia is super winding, there were cars coming from the other directions and blind spots on the narrow street, so I do not recommend driving yourself.

My right hand is pointing to the island of Ischia, another actice volcano.

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theatre at Peompeii

giant caldera of Mount Vesuvius that destroyed Pompeii.

view atop Mount Vesuvius

I stayed 1 months in Amalfi coast in the summer. Although the heat was unbearable during the day, I couldn't get enough of the fresh seafood pastas, gelatos and Apero Spritz. I would go back on a blink! If you are a language lover like me, stop by https://www.naclips.it/ for a lesson!

Are you planning a trip to Amalfi soon? Comment to let me know!

Cher Huang

Cher Huang

Venturing the world as a programmer. When I am not coding, find me diving, hiking, making arts, or getting strong and flexible.

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